Simple Spring Table Runner

Last week, one of my friends (we were in the same squadron in Jacksonville, and now the same one again in Pensacola!) invited a bunch of ladies over to play Keno.  We were asked to bring a $5 spring-themed gift to play white elephant.  Being the Martha (as in Stewart, a nickname given by my sister that I use proudly), I couldn’t just go out and buy a gift.  But I also couldn’t convince myself that I needed to buy supplies for my gift, since I have a craft room full of junk great stuff.  As I combed through my fabric, looking for anything with a spring feel, I realized I have some really great small pieces that would work well together to make something cute for the season.  So I decided to make a table runner!  Technically I didn’t spend anything at all on my gift, but I figure the cost of all the supplies I used would have been around the $5 mark, so I was good.


  • Scraps of 12 fabrics (or 48 if you want to go really eclectic!)
  • 1/2 yd of fabric for backing
  • 1/2 yd fusible batting
  • 2 12.5″ pieces of ric rac (optional)
  • Coordinating thread

(1/4″ seam allowances were used on everything unless otherwise noted)

You’ll need a total of 48 3.5″ squares of fabric; in my case, I cut 4 each of 12 fabrics.  You can do pairs, or all different, or repeat colors… it’s up to you and the look you’re going for.  Once you’ve got all your squares cut out, line them up in rows of 4 to decide how to place them.  My ironing board worked really well for this.


None of these fabrics were particularly “springy,” but together they worked well!

I went for an arrangement of diagonal stripes in rainbow order, but how you lay yours out is entirely up to you!  Some of my fabrics were directional, so I paid attention to that, too.  Then start sewing your strips of 4 together.  When your 12 strips are complete, turn to the back side and press your seam allowances in alternating directions; for instance, I pressed my first row upwards, 2nd downwards, 3rd upwards, and so on.  This seems silly, but trust me, it will make putting it together easier.

For a little interest, I inserted a strip of my backing fabric 2 rows in on either side of the runner (cut 2 strips of fabric 12.5″x2.5″ of your backing fabric, keeping in mind that you’ll need a 14″x41″ piece later).  You can start assembling your strips now, using the seam allowances you pressed earlier to line up the seams – just butt them up against each other (see photo below).  As long as they fit together tightly, you’ll have perfectly matched lines in your finished table runner.  Don’t forget to add in your extra strips of fabric, too!


See how you can just push those two little steps together? It’s really easy to feel that as you feed it through the machine, you don’t even really need to pin it in place.

Once the table runner top is assembled, turn it over and press all the seam allowances in the same direction.  Then cut out a piece of fusible batting to be the same size and iron it onto the back of the top (this is a good project to use scraps of batting, too, since you’ll never even notice if the batting isn’t perfect).  If you want to add the ric rac detail, now is the time to do it – just a straight stitch will do the trick.  Don’t worry about the ends, they’ll be covered when you bind it.  Lay the top with batting attached right side up on top of the backing fabric, wrong side up.  Cut the backing fabric to be about 3/4″ bigger on all sides than the top (mine ended up 41″x14″).  Safety pin in place like crazy (as usual, there’s no such thing as too many pins) in the centers of the squares.  Quilt the table runner by stitching 1/4″ to each side of each of the seams between the rows.  I don’t recommend stitching across the long way, as it will cut through your accent pieces on the front and won’t look so great – plus it’s more work that’s unnecessary!  Don’t worry about backstitching at the beginning and end, as long as you go right to the edges of the top side, it will be tacked down with the binding.


This is after the next step, but I just wanted to prove that your stitches won’t come out – they’re secured by the binding

Once all of your quilting is done, you’re on the home stretch!  The binding for this table runner is just like what we did in the Twister quilt – if you need specific directions, just click the link.  Press the raw edges of the backing in to meet the quilt top on all 4 sides.  Then fold the pressed edge in and pin in place, creating mitered corners in the process.  Stitch in place, and you’re done!

Spring Table Runner

If my table were bigger (we have a tiny dining room table), I might have kept this for myself and still bought a $5 gift!

This simple table runner doesn’t have to be only for spring – use different themed fabric prints or colors for different holidays, or one to match your dining room decor to use year-round.  It’s also fun to make something like this from remnants – that’s what my backing fabric was, a piece that I bought because I liked it but had no specific project in mind.  I think I paid about $2 for it!  Although I said the ric rac was optional, it really makes the table runner pop – and it was left over from another project, so it was a win-win.

This project is a great scrap buster, and makes an adorable, inexpensive gift.  You only need to sew straight lines, and it’s easy to make everything line up.  So don’t be afraid to try it out yourself!


Toddler Twister Quilt

One of my friends from Jacksonville (and college – funny how the military makes the world so small!) gave me a great idea when we got together before we moved to Pensacola – she thought that the game of Twister would be a great game for toddlers learning their colors, getting to know the difference between left and right, and improving their balance.  But traditional Twister is way too big for a 2 or 3 year old to use!  It’s also slippery, which can be very frustrating for someone just learning how to move their bodies in such a controlled way.  So I made a Twister quilt that’s toddler-sized, and with the following tutorial, you can too!


  • 1.5 yd fabric for quilt front
  • 1.5 yd fabric for quilt back
  • 1.5 yd fusible batting
  • 1/4 yd of green, yellow, blue, and red fabric
  • Heat N Bond Lite
  • Coordinating thread

Start off by cutting your quilt front piece to be 37″x46″.  This will actually be an inch too large on all sides, but it pays to have a little wiggle room later.

Now you’re going to become a circle-making machine.  Trace 24 4″ circles onto the paper side of your Heat N Bond.  You can use a paper template, but it’s soooo much easier if you can find something that’s about 4″ diameter to trace.  I have some formula cans from when Peach was little that are a smidge over 4″, but that was good enough for this project.  Cut the circles into strips of 6 and iron one strip onto each of the 4 solid color fabrics; cut out all 24 circles.


Top: 24 circles. Bottom: 6 red circles ready to be cut out.

Start placing your circles on the quilt front, using your ruler to keep them straight (you can peel the paper off the back as you place them).  Start with the green row (left side of the quilt) and place your first circle 6″ in from the top and the side.  Place the next couple of circles 2″ from the one before it.  When you run out of ruler, iron the circles in place, then line up again and continue.  When it’s time for the 2nd row (yellow), place the circles 3″ from the 1st row.  Continue with blue, then red, placing circles of the same color 2″ apart and the rows of different colors 3″ apart.  Then give the whole thing a good press to make sure the circles are secure.  Then you can iron the quilt front onto the fusible batting.

Placing Circles

Top: First row of green started. Bottom: Placing the yellow based on the green.

I’m not going to lie, the next step is the hardest part of this project.  To keep the circles in place, you need to applique around the edges.  The applique itself is easy – a simple circle isn’t hard to do.  But you have to rotate the whole quilt around each of those circles, which can be a little tough.  If you’re not up for doing a zigzag applique, at least straight stitch 1/4″ from the edge around each circle – when the quilt is used, the circles are going to take some abuse, and the Heat N Bond alone won’t hold up.


A bit tedious, but those circles aren’t going anywhere!

As I mentioned earlier, we cut the quilt front to be a little too big.  So trim it and square it up; each edge should be 5″ from the outermost circles, making it 35″x44″.  Then, lay the quilt front on top of the wrong side of the quilt back, leaving at least 2″ around each side.  Safety pin the front to the back of the quilt, placing the pins near the circles and in the 4 corners of the quilt (so they don’t get in the way of your quilting; pinning inside the circles will leave a permanent hole because of the Heat N Bond, so don’t do it!).  There is no such thing as too many safety pins!  The more you use, the less chance there is of puckering.  Once it’s pinned, trim the backing fabric to extend 2″ beyond the front all the way around.

The quilting will be simple on this quilt – a grid that goes between each of the circles on the front.  Use your ruler to measure up and mark each of those locations around the perimeter of the quilt, then straight stitch across between each row of circles, going all the way to the edge of the quilt front.  Use a bobbin that coordinates with the back, and don’t worry about backstitching, since the binding method will secure those stitches.

Prep to Quilt

Left: Quilt front laid on the wrong side of the backing, ready to be pinned and trimmed. Right: Pinned up, marking the halfway point for each row of circles on the edge of the quilt.

Once you are all quilted, you’re on the home stretch!  I learned the binding method for this quilt here, and it’s by far my new favorite method.  Start off by pressing the edges of the backing in to meet the quilt front (in this case, 1″).  Don’t worry about the corners, just press in 1″ on all 4 sides however you want – we’ll take care of the corners in a minute.


Press in the edges on all 4 sides – don’t worry about how the corners fold up

Then, start in the middle of any side and fold the backing up onto the front of the quilt, pinning in place every so often.  When you get to the corner, open up the pressed edge on the next side and fold over the side you’re working on all the way to the edge.  Then, fold the corner down to the edge meets the quilt front.  Fold the edge of the next side to meet the quilt front, along the crease where it was pressed, then fold again to go on the quilt front – you have created a nice mitered corner!  Pin in place, and continue with the same method all the way around the quilt.

Mitered Corner

Left: Unfold the next side, and fold up the side you’re working on. Center: Fold the corner in. Right: Fold along the crease made earlier, then fold onto quilt front and pin in place.

Once it’s pinned in place, use thread that coordinates with the back of the quilt to stitch a scant 1/4″ from where the binding overlaps the quilt front; backstitch at the end to secure.

Completed Quilt

Finished Twister quilt

And that’s it!  Doesn’t the handprint fabric make the perfect background for a Twister “board”?  And I figured black with polka dots won’t show as much dirt from being on the floor.  I recommend staying away from plain white fabric, as it will show every bit of dirt and will need to be washed all the time!  SPINNER

I sent this quilt to my friend, who has a little one between Monster and Peach’s ages – I know he’ll love it, and he’ll be learning as he plays!  I searched and searched for a Twister spinner, but couldn’t find one without buying the whole game – until I searched the app store on my phone.  So instead of a real spinner, all you need is a smart phone, there are plenty of free Twister spinner apps out there (on another note: who thinks of this stuff??).

Make one for a toddler you love, and teach them the fun of Twister!

Fish Laundry Hamper

When we moved, I decided to go with an under the sea themed room for the kids.  It’s gender neutral, since they share a room, and it’s cute, but I’ll be able to adapt the decorations to grow up with them.  Over the next few weeks, I’ll share some of the DIY ideas I’ve completed to create this theme.

I found these cute fish laundry bags on Pinterest, but knew I could do them cheaper and in the colors I wanted.  I also designed mine so that the tails aren’t open to clothes – imagine how hard it could be to get some teensy toddler socks out of the tips of those tails!  I made my fish on the smaller side, since the kids’ clothes are going to stay small for a while.  And I made 2 so that they don’t get too heavy for the kids to help out bringing them to the laundry room.

To make each fish laundry bag, you’ll need:

  • 1 yd fabric
  • Scraps of white and black fabric
  • Heat N Bond Lite
  • Scraps of lightweight interfacing
  • 30 in 1/4″ ribbon
  • Fish Hamper Pattern
  • Coordinating thread

Cut out the following in your main fabric:

  • 2 isosceles triangles 14.5″ wide at the base and 16.5″ tall
  • 4 tail pieces from pattern
  • 1 rectangle 16.5″x27.5″

Trace 2 of each of the eye circles onto the paper side of the Heat N Bond, iron the smaller circles onto the black fabric scrap and larger circles onto the white fabric scrap and cut out.


The fish is already staring at you, before he’s even a fish!

The rectangular piece is going to be the top of the bag.  Press it in half longways (hotdog-style) and iron the eye pieces about 3″ from the fold and 3″ from the raw edge on each side.

Eye Diagram

Don’t you love my professional drawing?

Iron a scrap of lightweight interfacing on the back side of each eye (unfold it so it’s directly behind the eye) and applique both the inner and outer circles.  If you need a refresher on applique, check out my post here.


Front and back of appliqued eye

Keep the rectangle unfolded.  Place the short ends wrong side together and stitch with 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a 1″ opening at the center (1/2″ on each side of the fold you pressed in earlier – marking it makes it MUCH easier).  Press the seam open, and stitch  the seam allowances down around the opening that was left.  Fold the rectangle back down, and stitch all the way around the top, 1/2″ from the fold, to create a casing for a drawstring.  See photos below for a visual; you may also recognize this method from the camera lens case tutorial.

Draw String Casing

Left: Make a tube with a 1″ opening in the center. Center: Stitch the seam allowance down around the opening. Right: Create a 1/2″ tube along the fold.

Place the two large body triangles right sides together and stitch along the two long sides.  Trim the corner as pictured below, turn right side out, and press flat.


Tip of the tail, to show trimming

Create the tail pieces by placing two tail triangles (right sides together) and stitching along one side (1/4″ SA).  Fold open and press wrong sides together, then stitch the other two sides together with 1/2″ seam allowance.  If you have pinking shears, you can cut the raw edges with them for a fun look!  Otherwise, a simple trim with regular scissors will do.  Repeat for the second fin.  Then attach to the bottom of your body piece, seam to seam, with a zigzag stitch.


Left: Stitch triangles along one side. Center: Press open, then wrong sides together, and stitch other 2 sides. Right: Zigzag stitch fins to tail.

Turn the finished head piece eyes in, and insert the top of the body piece inside, raw edges matching.  Pin in place, and stitch the two together with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  You may have a bit of puckering, and that’s ok, just try to get it as even as you can.  Turn the body inside out and iron the seam you just sewed towards the tail.

Attach Top

Left: Attaching the head to the body. Right: Iron the seam towards the tail.

Turn right side out, insert ribbon into the casing, and secure with a knot.


Use a safety pin to thread the ribbon through the casing

And voila!  You’ve created an adorable but very useful fishy laundry bag!


So cute, if I do say so myself!

I haven’t hung ours yet, but Radar is going to put some hooks on the wall, which will make them easy to hang or take down, and they’ll look like a fish on a hook – how cute!  As you can see, I went with teal and orange for the kids’ new room, but of course these can be done in any color, or even a fun pattern!

Skull Caps

Radar’s crew in his old squadron was very tight.  They love flying together, and all got along really well.  They also tracked several subs under rainbows… so that became their crew symbol.  Radar asked me during deployment if I could make his crew skull caps to wear on their missions – in rainbow colors!  It took me a while to figure out how to make them, but I think they turned out pretty well, and the crew ended up wearing them on all their missions!

My inspiration came from this website, but I had to stew on the project for a bit before I decided exactly how I wanted to put my own together.  These caps would work well for under a helmet (such as for a pilot or riding a motorcycle) or as a cap for a nurse in the OR, and they’re relatively simple to put together.

The trickiest part of making something like this is sewing on a curve.  I found a great tutorial here, but unfortunately it only works with a perfect circle, which this is not!  But I found that with a lot of pinning, I could make it work pretty well.  I also opted to use my serger so that all the internal seams were finished, but I’ll include instructions for using a sewing machine as well.

The directions below are to make the whole cap out of one fabric – but you’ll see, I used different colors for the bands so that each crew member would have their own.  You could use different fabric for any of the pieces, or keep it all the same… whatever strikes your fancy.


Start by cutting out all of your pieces.  Cut 2 of the pattern above, but cut them as mirror images (either cut one with the pattern right side up and one with it upside down, or fold your fabric and cut both out at once).  Cut a piece 5″x18″ for the top of the cap.  The last cut is a 2.5″x35″ piece, but you can also make it out of two 2.5″x18″ pieces sewn together; press this piece in half lengthwise.  You can make the band the same color or a different color if you want it to be more whimsical.


The band here is actually 2 pieces sewn together

Serge the short straight edges of the side pieces.  If you don’t have a serger, you can fold the edge to the wrong side 1/4″ and stitch in place.


This finishes off the back of the cap

The next step is the hardest.  Pin the 5″x18″ piece  along the curve of one of the side pieces, right sides together.  Repeat for the other side.  Then start at the front of one of the pinned curves, serge from front to back on the side piece, curve around the tail of the top piece, and go back up towards the front on the other side – but be CAREFUL!  You definitely cannot let those pins go through your serger!  If you don’t have a serger you sew in the same order (front of one side, around the back, and back up the other side), but turn the edges in on the top piece as you go around it.

Cap Construction

Left: Starting the pinning process. Second: One side pinned. Third: Both sides pinned. Right: Serged.

The last step is adding the band to tie it!  Turn the cap right side out and pin the pressed band seam raw edges together, lining up the center of the band with the center of the cap.  Serge from the tip of one side of the band around to the tip of the other, curving at the ends to make them a point; tie a knot in the tail on each side and trim the threads.  On a sewing machine, turn the edges of the band in and stitch all the way around.

Completed Caps

Left: The serging make the inside nice and finished. Center: The cap is done. Right: 12 of them!

I made 12 for Radar’s crew, in all different colors so they would know whose is whose.

Model Cap

Sorry for the terrible selfies! I pretty much never take them 😛

These caps whip together in about 10 minutes, so you can make a bunch!

Kitchen Appliance Covers – Odd Shapes

This is the third and final tutorial for making appliance covers for your kitchen.  Check out part 1 to make a rectangular cover, and part 2 to make a cylindrical cover.

The only other shape I could think of was the stand mixer.  What an awkward appliance to cover!  But if you make a cover like an upside-down U, it’s not so bad – I promise!

Like the other 2 tutorials, start off with your measurements:

  • Maximum circumference: the longest length you can find around the outside of the appliance (keep parallel to the counter).  This is the minimum size you need the circumference of the bottom of your cover to be in order to fit on.
  • Height: again, go for the maximum – you don’t want it to be like pants that were hemmed too high, you want those “ankles” covered!
  • Width and depth: to give you an idea of the shape.  Does not have to be exact, just pretty close (the nice thing about fabric is it bends!)
  • Any other measurements you think might be helpful: since this is just a general guideline, measure anything else you think may be useful

You’re going to make two identical pieces shaped like a U, with a width about 1″ more than the width you measured (I ended up with 8″) and a height that’s 1/4″ more than the height you measured (I cut mine to be 13.75″).  I found it easier to cut a rectangle, then round the top corners.  These will be your front and back pieces, and as before you need to cut 3 of each – 1 from outer fabric, one from batting, and one from lining fabric.

Next you need to cut a great big rectangle to sew around the U shape to finish the cover.  Measure around the curve of the U’s to get the length.  For the depth, add 1″ to your appliance depth measurement.  Just as a double check, add all of your measurements together: 2 times the rectangle depth plus 2 times the width of the U – make sure they add up to at least 1″ more than the circumference!  If it’s less, make your rectangle deeper.  I ended up with a rectangle that was 24″ deep (I can’t tell you the width because I messed it up, and didn’t actually measure it when I fixed it – oops!).

Once you have your outer fabric, lining, and batting cut out, iron the batting onto the outer fabric and quilt all 3 layers together.  Then, pin your rectangle around the curve of each of the U’s and stitch in place.  To finish it up, add your double-fold bias tape around the bottom, and that’s it!

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Completed stand mixer cover

This same method can be used for other shapes, too – just try to figure out what shape works best and make your own design!

As a bonus, Radar’s mom doesn’t like how hard it is to slide her stand mixer on the countertop – she keeps it in the corner, and it’s really, really hard to pull those sticky feet out to where it’s useable!  So she asked me to make a little “coaster” to keep it on that will make moving it around easier.  All I did was trace the bottom of the mixer and cut the same 3 layers out with an extra 1/4″ around my tracing.  Then I ironed the batting onto the top, put the pieces right sides together, and stitched around the edge, leaving a 3″ opening on one of the straight parts (trust me, you don’t want to try to stitch a curve shut if you can avoid it!).  Turn it right side out, quilt the pad, and then stitch around the edge with a scant 1/4″ seam allowance, turning the open edges in.


Coaster for a stand mixer

And now you have a beautiful set of appliance covers to make your kitchen a more cheerful, coordinating place!


I seriously love those chickens… I might have to get some of that fabric for myself!

Kitchen Appliance Covers – Cylinder

This is part 2 of a 3-part tutorial for making covers for your countertop kitchen appliances.  Check out how to make a rectangular cover here.

Another common shape for appliances is a cylinder – like a blender, juicer, or food processor.  This may actually be even easier than the rectangular tutorial… the hardest part is sewing a curve, and if you’ve got that down it’s easy peasy!

Start off by measuring your appliance, just like we did for the rectangle:

  • Maximum circumference: the longest length you can find around the outside of the appliance (keep parallel to the counter).  This is the minimum size you need the circumference of the bottom of your cover to be in order to fit on.
  • Height: again, go for the maximum – you don’t want it to be like pants that were hemmed too high, you want those “ankles” covered!
  • (Skip width and depth, it’s a circle!)
  • Any other measurements you think might be helpful: since this is just a general guideline, measure anything else you think may be useful

The math for this one is a bit scarier – you’ll have to pull out your calculator and high school geometry.  Well, sort of, because I’m going to remind you how to do it!  Divide your maximum circumference by 3.14 (you might remember, that’s pi) to get the diameter of the circle (see, the math is coming back, isn’t it?).  Add about 1″ to that diameter (1/2″ for seam allowance and 1/2″ for wiggling the cover onto your appliance).  You’ll cut a circle with a diameter of this calculated measurement.

There’s one more piece to cut.  Use the diameter of the circle you just cut, multiply by 3.14, and add 1/2″.  That will be the width of the piece that will go around.  Add 1/4″ to the height of the appliance that you measured, and that’s now tall to cut the piece.

That’s it, just 2 pieces!  As before, of each you’ll cut an outer piece, a fusible batting piece, and a lining piece.  Fuse the batting onto the exterior pieces, and quilt all 3 layers together.

Start assembling your cover by pinning the rectangular piece around the circle piece, right sides together.  Don’t worry if the ends don’t match up perfectly – it won’t make that big a difference in the finished product.  Stitch around the circle.  Then, put the right sides together of the gap in the rectangular piece and stitch from bottom to top to create a cylinder (if it gathers or puckers, you can just poke that in when the cover’s on your appliance).


Sewing a curve successfully is all about pinning – a ton!

Add the extra wide double-fold bias tape around the bottom like we did with the rectangular cover, and you’re done!

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I still really love those chickens

Next, check out my tutorial for odd-shaped appliance covers, like for a stand mixer.

Kitchen Appliance Covers – Rectangle

Kitchen appliances are not the most beautiful things in your house to look at.  Unless you have a show on the Food Network, they rarely match (each other or the decor), they are excellent at collecting dust and other not-so-yummy grossness, and they’re just not all that pretty when they’re not full of delicious food.  So most people want to cover them up with covers that will match the decor, keep the dust and grossness off, and look good at the same time!  Unfortunately, since every appliance is different, I can’t really provide a pattern for this tutorial.  What I will do, however, is show you how to take measurements of your appliances, turn that into your own unique pattern, and then make your own unique covers!

I will warn you – there will be some thinking involved in this process.  So I don’t want anyone yelling at me because math was involved!  But with some very basic drawing (I believe I’ve mentioned that I can barely draw a stick figure, so don’t worry, it’s not complicated!) and labeling, you should be able to tackle this problem without too much difficulty.  I do, however, recommend keeping a calculator handy, just in case!

Radar’s mom asked me to make covers for her electric can opener, blender, and KitchenAid stand mixer, which conveniently all have different but typical shapes.  There are three posts:

The easiest is by far the rectangular cover.  We will start off by measuring, which will be the same for all three tutorials.

Take the following measurements:

  • Maximum circumference: the longest length you can find around the outside of the appliance (keep parallel to the counter).  This is the minimum size you need the circumference of the bottom of your cover to be in order to fit on.
  • Height: again, go for the maximum – you don’t want it to be like pants that were hemmed too high, you want those “ankles” covered!
  • Width and depth: to give you an idea of the shape.  Does not have to be exact, just pretty close (the nice thing about fabric is it bends!)
  • Any other measurements you think might be helpful: since this is just a general guideline, measure anything else you think may be useful

Now that you’re armed with your measurements, it’s time to do the math.  Draw a general picture of what you want the cover to look like.  In the case of the rectangular cover, I drew a box (very much NOT to scale!).  In my case, the can opener measured 4.5″ wide, 4.25″ deep, and 8.5″ tall with a 23″ circumference (it actually sticks out a little at the back, but a rectangle will keep it covered nicely).  Add about 1″ to your width measurement to get your cover width (1/2″ for seam allowance and 1/2″ for wiggle room getting the cover on and off).  Add about 1″ to your depth measurement to get your cover depth (same principle).  Only add 1/4″ to your height measurement – as we said before, we want it to perfectly meet the counter, not be too long or too short.  The 1/4″ will cover the seam allowance at the top.

The cover will consist of 5 pieces:

  • 1 top piece (width x height)
  • 2 side pieces (depth x height)
  • 2 front/back pieces (width x depth)

But it’s not just made from the fabric that matches your kitchen.  You’ll want to add a layer of batting (I prefer fusible, and fuse it to the outer fabric for a clean finish) and a layer of lining to cover the batting.  I used the same fabric for the lining as the outside, just didn’t pay as close attention to the direction.

Once your outer fabric, batting, and lining are all cut out (and the batting is attached to the outer pieces), you’ll want to “quilt” your fabric.  If you know how to free-motion quilt, go for it!  I do not, sadly (it’s on my to-do list to learn how), but the fabric that my mother-in-law chose was super easy – I just stitched lines between the rows of the chickens (aren’t they super cute and festive, by the way??).


Quilted pieces, ready to put together

Now it’s time to start sewing it together.  I opted to use my serger because it makes a nice finished edge, but as usual, you can use a regular straight stitch on a sewing machine.  Seam allowances should all be 1/4″.

Start by sewing the top to the sides – pay attention to which side is inside and which is outside!  Place right sides together for this step.  Then sew the front and back onto the top as well, creating a plus sign.

Top And Sides

Left: Sides attached to top. Right: All parts attached to top.

The next step is to stitch the sides up – it’s not too hard.  You may have to play with it a little to make everything line up, but if you measured your fabric right it shouldn’t be too bad.


Starting to look like an appliance cover; you can see I didn’t pay attention to how the fabric laid on the interior – because who cares??

Now it’s time to finish off the bottom.  Turn the cover right side out and pin extra wide double-fold bias tape around the bottom, overlapping from the starting point and folding in the raw edge.  A quick note here on the bias tape you buy at the store.  It’s actually not folded in half – one edge is slightly wider than the other:


See how the bottom section sticks up above the top side?

Put the longer side on the inside of the cover so you can be sure to catch the back side of the tape when you’re stitching on the right side.  Stitch all the way around and you’re finished with your cover!

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Rectangular appliance cover complete!

Monster thought it was just HILARIOUS to wear it like a hat… it made Peach laugh too!

IMG_3481Use the links at the top to check out my other tutorials for different shapes of appliance covers!