Easy Little Girl’s Dress

There are so many cool fabrics out there these days.  And I don’t just mean cute prints, but the types of fabric you can buy sometimes blows my mind!  I recently discovered fabric that is pre-shirred – basically, it’s already smocked with elastic thread when you buy it!  How brilliant is that??  I found some adorable 19″ fabric to make Peach and my niece each a dress (because what’s cuter than little girls in matching outfits?), and I’m not even kidding, you can literally sew one seam and be done!  So read on to see how easy it is to make your own adorable dress!

To figure out how much I needed for each dress, I measured the kiddos around the chest and subtracted 2 inches.  Cutting this fabric is a little different than regular cotton, but the measurements are based on the shirred section, not the bottom of the dress.  I am generally not a fan of tearing fabric to cut it (in fact, I cringe when they do this at the fabric store), but in this case, you pretty much have to in order to get a straight line.  So, use your ruler to measure the fabric at the top, cut to the bottom of the shirred section with your scissors, and tear down to the bottom of the fabric (you’ll need the scissors again for the selvage).


I cut with scissors at the end of my ruler, then tore to the bottom and trimmed the bottom part

Fold the fabric in half, right sides together, and line up the top, bottom, and the shirring threads.  I used a serger so that the seam would be finished, but a sewing machine would also work.  If you use a serger, jump on your regular machine to zigzag the tails in place, like we did on the pillowcase dress before.


Serger tail secured with zigzag stitching

Technically, you’re done at this point!  However, I chose to add little straps made of 1/2″ ribbon, since it would be very easy for the girls to pull them down without straps.  For Peach’s dress, I used 7″ ribbons that were 2″ from the seam (which I centered in the back).  For my niece’s I used 8″ ribbons 2.5″ from the seam.  Just fold them over and stitch above the shirring.  For the front, line the seam up with the center and fold the ribbons forward; secure as on the back.


The 2″ and 2.5″ numbers are to the outside of the straps (this one is my niece’s)

As usual, I bribed Monster to model the dress for me – I am going to have so many blackmail photos when he’s in high school!  Peach wasn’t as cooperative, but she really loved holding his hand.

Finished Dresses

I still think he would have made a pretty girl!

One of the really great things about these dresses is that they can grow with them.  As the girls get taller, the dress goes from full-length (like it is on Peach now) to knee-length (like it is on Monster now) to a cute shirt with leggings.  And you can always put a t-shirt or long-sleeve T underneath to be more weather appropriate.  That’s what I call a versatile piece of clothing!

In case you’re wondering, they also make shirred fabric in 45″ and 53″ wide options for adults… I have some already, so be on the lookout in the future for a similar post for grown-ups!


Padded Camera Lens Pouch

Radar’s dad has a bad-ass camera.  His parents love to travel, and he takes gorgeous photos everywhere they go.  I knew when I saw this tutorial that I just had to make some lens cases for him!  He has a big, fancy bag for carrying all of his equipment, but I thought it would be nice to make him some cases to store his lenses individually and protect them from wear and dirt.  Having cases also means he can grab just one lens with the camera and toss them in a smaller bag, so he doesn’t always have to carry the big one.  At the very least, he’ll know his investment is safe with an extra layer of protection on all their trips!  So read on about how you can make some lens cases, too!  (All seam allowances are 1/4″ unless otherwise stated)


  • 1/4 yd or fat quarter each of an outer and lining fabric
  • 1/4 yard fusible batting (the thicker, the better)
  • Extra wide double fold bias tape
  • 1/4″ ribbon
  • Coordinating thread

Cut your fabric out according to the following guidelines:

For a small pouch (finished diameter of 3.5″ and height of 4.5″), cut:

  • Outer fabric
    • 4″ circle
    • 11.5″x5″ (for the sides of the pouch)
    • 11.5″x8″ (for the upper drawstring part)
  • Inner fabric
    • 4″ circle
    • 11.5″x5″
  • Batting
    • 4″ circle
    • 11.5″x5″

For a medium pouch (finished diameter of 4.5″ and height of 5.5″), cut:


  • Outer fabric
    • 5″ circle
    • 15.5″x6″ (for the sides of the pouch)
    • 15.5″x8″ (for the upper drawstring part)
  • Inner fabric
    • 5″ circle
    • 15.5″x6″
  • Batting
    • 5″ circle
    • 15.5″x6″

For a large pouch (finished diameter of 4.5″ and height of 7.5″), cut:

  • Outer fabric
    • 5″ circle
    • 15.5″x8″ (for the sides of the pouch)
    • 15.5″x8″ (for the upper drawstring part)
  • Inner fabric
    • 5″ circle
    • 15.5″x8″
  • Batting
    • 5″ circle
    • 15.5″x8″

Iron the fusible batting onto the wrong side of the same size pieces of outer fabric.


The batting is already attached to the outer pieces

Create the upper part of the pouch by first pressing the piece of outer fabric noted above in half longways, wrong sides together (it’s the piece of fabric that doesn’t have a mate of interior fabric).  Then unfold and fold in the other direction, right sides together.  Stitch along the raw edge with 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving a 1″ opening in the center (I find it easier to draw a line to keep track of everything; click on the photo below to see it bigger) – don’t forget to backstitch at the edges of the opening!  You now have a loop of fabric.  Press the seam open, then refold, good side out.

Top Portion

Creating the upper part of the pouch

Fold the pieces of the sides of the pouch (outer fabric with batting and inner fabric) in half right sides together and stitch up the side to create a loop of fabric; press the seam open.  Then pin to the coordinating circle and stitch in place.


Outer shell and lining pinned and sewn

Turn the outer shell right side out, and insert the lining into the shell, lining up the seams.  Slide the upper part you made before down over the shell and pin in place with all raw edges together; line it up with the shell, don’t worry if the lining sticks up a little too high.  Stitch around the top to secure.


Left: Lining inside of shell. Right: Upper part added and pinned in place.

Now you have two options.  The first option is not as pretty on the outside of the pouch, but it will be easier to get your lens in and out.  The second makes a prettier pouch, but creates a ring you’ll have to slide your lens past to get it in.

To make a case that’s easy to get the lens in and out of (option 1), turn the pouch inside out (all the way, so the top part should be sticking straight up in the air.  Lay the edge of the bias tape over the seam attaching the top and bottom of the pouch and stitch in place.  Then pull the other side of the tape over the seam and stitch it in place too.  Be sure to pull the top part of the case taught to prevent puckers.  This method only works if you can put the pouch around the free arm of the sewing machine – I could only do that with the medium and large pouches.

To make a case that’s prettier on the outside, keep the pouch folded the way you sewed it together, fold the bias tape over the raw edges, and stitch in place.


The left one is my small pouch with option 2 for the interior, right has option 1 on the medium pouch

Turn the pouch right side out and stitch 1/2″ from the fold at the top to create a casing for the tie ribbon.  Use a safety pin to thread some ribbon through the casing; tie a knot to keep it from coming out and trim.


Casing for the ribbon created

Voila!  I made 3, using some travel-themed fabric – but camera fabric would be super cute for this!  The only camera fabric I could find was flannel, and I didn’t want to use a fuzzy fabric that might get into the lenses.  And the lining was just something fun that I had – I did one for each of the schools that Radar and his brother went to, and one that was patriotic.

Completed Pouches

Finished products!

Now go make one (or a few) for your favorite photographer!

Sewn Paper Gift Card Holder

I always feel so lame giving people gift cards for Christmas… I feel like it’s a cop-out, and impersonal.  But for certain people, like Monster’s teachers (who I know put a lot of their own money into his education), a gift card is the perfect way to thank them for everything they do.

To make an impersonal gift a little more personal, I found this adorable idea on Pinterest!  Sewing on paper is one of those things that I always forget I can do.  And with all the cute scrapbooking paper out there, you can find just the right thing for any occasion – not just Christmas.

Standard gift cards are 3 3/8″ x 2 1/8″, but you can adjust the measurements if you have one that’s a different size – you really can’t mess it up!


  • Pocket paper: 2.75″x2.75″
  • Backing paper: 3.25″x4.25″
  • Thread

Place the pocket paper on top of the backing paper, leaving 1/4″ edge on the sides and at the bottom.  Lower your needle into the backing paper about one stitch length above the pocket piece.  Stitch around the side, bottom, and other side, leaving long tails of thread at the start and end.  Turn the card over and pull on the bobbin tails at the start and end to create a loop from the front, and pull all the way through.  Tie knots in both, and clip.


Front and back for a standard size card, and the third one is non-standard – I just measured and “winged it”

Of course, you should probably use coordinating thread… I was super busy tonight and just used what was in my machine, which was black (boring, but it worked!).  Metallic thread would also be festive, or use your pinking shears on the pocket paper to give it some pizazz!

For my nieces, I ran out of Christmas paper (which Michael’s only sells in huge packages, unfortunately), so I used some Christmas-colored paper.  I also extended the height of the cardstock backing to make a flap to fold down and create a little envelope.  Super easy and cute!


I love the metallic paper on the left one! If you have fancy Christmas stickers it would be way cuter than tape for keeping them closed.

So, if you forgot to get someone a gift and it’s the 11th hour, this is the perfect way to dress up a gift card.  Merry Christmas!

Back Ice Pack

When I was in Arizona back in August, my grandfather’s lower back was a little sore and he pulled out this crazy-looking ice pack that strapped around his waist.  I noticed that it was starting to come apart, and no wonder – he’s had it for about 15 years!  Since then, he has really done a number on his back, so I thought that making him a new version of his favorite remedy would make the perfect Christmas gift!  It’s a simple design, but definitely useful for anyone who suffers from a sore back.  Also, it’s filled with feed corn, so you can also pop it in the microwave for some heat therapy… I love a multi-tasker!  So read on for how to make your own back ice pack!


  • 1/2 yd fabric
  • 1/3 yd medium weight interfacing
  • 2 12″ strips of 3/4″ Velcro (1″ would also work)
  • Coordinating thread
  • Feed corn

Measure the waist of your recipient – if you can’t measure it, just give it a good guess; it doesn’t have to be perfect because you’ll add 12″ of Velcro later, giving lots of wiggle room.  The length of each of your straps will be that waist measurement, divided by 2, with an extra inch added; for me, that was 32″ (my Zaidy is ridiculously skinny), divided by 2 to get 16″, and add 1″ to get 17″.  Cut 2 pieces of fabric and 2 pieces of interfacing 10″x13″, and 4 pieces of fabric 4″x(whatever you just calculated).  Following the directions on the interfacing, iron it onto the back of the fabric rectangles.  Press one end of each of the 4″x(calculated) strips in 1/4″.  Then, press each strip in half long-ways, unfold, and press each of the raw sides into the center crease (you know the drill, to make a “strap” that’s 1″ wide).  Line one side of one of the 12″ Velcro pieces up with the turned in end of one of the straps, and stitch in place.  Also, stitch down the sides of the rest of the strap, just to hold it in place.


Two pieces for the corn (with interfacing), and 4 straps

Now it’s time to start assembly.  Start with the two straps with the Velcro hooks.  Place them on the 10″ edge of one of the body pieces, hook side down, about 3/4″ from the top and bottom.  Repeat for the loop sides on the other 10″ side, but make the straps loop side up.  Baste all 4 in place.  That sounds confusing, but check out the photo below to clear it up.


Loop pieces are on the left, loop side up; hook pieces are on the right, hook side down

Now, pin the other 10″x13″ piece right sides together on top, making sure all the straps are contained so they don’t get caught in the seam.  I pinned about 3/4″ from the edge to keep it all under control.  Then sew around the edge with 1/2″ seam allowance, leaving an opening about 4″-5″ for turning.


Pinned and ready to sew! The pins sticking out on the left are to remind me to stop – otherwise I end up closing it all up!

Turn right side out.  Stitch two lines across the middle of the ice pack, each 3″ from the 13″ (now 12″) edge, beginning and ending 2″ from the 10″ (now 9″) edges.  Again, look at the photo below to clear up my wording!  Then fill with corn, and stitch the opening shut.


Those tubes help keep the corn from all sagging at the bottom. It also keeps you from having to use 10 lbs of corn, making the ice pack too heavy!

Unfortunately, the feed corn (whole-kernel type) usually comes in gigantic bags – the minimum I could buy at my local feed store was 50 lbs!  The good new is that it’s cheap… I think I paid $8 for all that.  So use the rest to make some corn hole bags or bean bags.  Or you can make some fun animal ice packs for the kids!  And if you just don’t feel like dealing with it, feed corn makes good bird feed too 🙂

Van Seat Back Organizer

The other day, I was loading up the kids in the van at a friend’s house and she was admiring my van’s seat back organizer.  I didn’t make my own – it’s an Avon product from my grandmother (it looks like a puppy dog).  But she had seen a similar one through thirty-one, which cost $35!  So I knew immediately that I had my next project.  What busy mom on the go couldn’t use a little bit of organization in their mom-mobile?  Especially my friend – she has 3 little ones!  So I got to work, and here’s what I ended up with.


  • Fabric – about a yard total (I used coordinating prints, so it was less than a yard of each)
  • Batting – 1/2 yard
  • 1/4″ elastic – 1-1.5 yards
  • 1″ elastic – about a yard
  • Coordinating thread

I’m gong to start off with a disclaimer: you don’t have to make yours the way I made mine!  I put extra cup holders because of my friend’s number of kids, and a book holder because her oldest is 6.  At this stage for us, that’s too many cup holders and my kids don’t read yet!  You can also nix the wipes holder if your kids are out of diapers… that’s what is so great about this organizer, is that it’s totally customizable.  So my instructions will show you how to make one identical to mine, but you can make yours perfect for you.

I measured the seats of my own van, since I drive the same kind as my friend, to get the dimensions for my organizer.  I measured the width of my seat to be 18″, the height from the top to where I wanted the elastic to be was 20″, and then I had another 8″ to the floor of the van.  I also measured around the headrest to be about 11″, which should be the same for all cars.  Lastly, measure all the way around the bottom of the seat (I got 45″).  So for my car, I cut 2 pieces of fabric and 1 piece of batting 19″x27″ (so the finished size would be 18″x26″ with 1/2″ seam allowances), 24″ of 1/4″ elastic (45″minus 18″ for the organizer minus 3″ so it will be taught), and a strip of fabric 4″x12″ for the top.

Press the 4″x12″ strip of fabric in half long ways, open up, press each raw edge to the center, and press in half again, making a strip 1″ wide with no raw edges (except the ends), and stitch a scant 1/4″ up both sides to secure.  Place the two large pieces of fabric right sides together, with the batting on top.  Insert the strip you just made at the top, between the fabric layers, with the raw ends each showing about 1/2″ over the top of the fabric (place them about 7″ apart).  Also, place the elastic 20″ from the top on each side, between the two layers of fabric (make sure it’s not twisted if you’re OCD like me!).  Stitch around the edge (1/2″ SA), leaving an opening about 4-5″ long on the bottom for turning.  Turn right side out, turn in the opening, and stitch 1/4″ around the whole edge.  You can keep the top loop out of the stitching, but you’ll have to go over the elastic – that’s ok.  Now you have a blank canvas for adding your pockets to your organizer!


Fold back one of the fabric layers to insert the top loop; do the same at the bottom for the elastic.

I started off with the cup holders.  For a full fabric cup holder, cut a piece of fabric 7″x10″ and one Cup Holder Pattern.  Press the 10″ side down 1/4″, then another 1/2″ and stitch at the bottom of the fold, making a casing for the elastic.  Thread 8″ of elastic through with a safety pin, and stitch in place on the ends.  Then pin the bottom 10″ side right sides together around the curve of the cup holder bottom and stitch in place.  Then press the raw edges in, pin in place on the seat back organizer, and stitch in place.  I made 2 of these (although if you’re using a directional print, pay attention to which way is up so you don’t have flowers growing upside down like I did!).

Cup Holder

Left: Pin the rectangle around the cup holder bottom. Center: Press the edges in 1/4″. Right: Pin in place and stitch onto the organizer.

My 3rd cup holder was made with elastic – I thought it would be more useful for a bottle for the baby this way.  It’s also a lot easier!  Cut 3 pieces of 1″ elastic, 2 that are 6″ long and 1 that’s 3″.  Use a zigzag stitch to attach the 3″ piece to the center of one of the 6″ pieces.  Then sew the other end of the 3″ piece (with a straight stitch again) where you want the bottom of the cup holder on the organizer.  Fold the two ends of the attached 6″ piece in 1/4″ and pin in place on the organizer about 4″ apart, as pictured below, and stitch it on.  Fold the ends of the other 6″ piece similarly, and stitch in place about 4-5″ higher to complete the elastic cup holder.


The bottom of the elastic cup holder

I don’t know about any other mom, but I am always looking for a wet wipe, so I wanted to make them easily accessible for my friend (and her little helpers in the car).  I found that using elastic was the easiest and most effective way to hold it on.  I also played around with the measurements, so the directions that follow should hold a brand new pack of wipes and also one that’s almost empty.  Cut two pieces of 1″ elastic 7.5″ long.  Fold the ends over 1/4″ like for the cup holder, and sew onto the organizer 4.5″ apart (width-wise), with the height of the holders 5″ (that means 5″ high for the 7.5″ elastic, so they’ll bubble out).  A package of wipes will insert in there snugly when full, but still securely when almost empty.


Simple but effective wet wipes holder

Next to the wipes spot I had some extra space, so I made a little utility pocket.  It’s pleated at the bottom for more space, and has elastic at the top to keep the contents inside.  If you don’t want a large book pocket like mine, you can add more of these in different sizes – they’re super easy to make and super useful!  For mine, I cut a piece of fabric 6″x9″ and a 7″ piece of 1/4″ elastic.  Press the top 9″ edge in 1/4″, then another 1/2″ and stitch in place to make a tube for the elastic.  Feed the elastic through with a safety pin, and stitch to the ends of the pocket.  Press the other 3 sides of pocket in 1/4″.  Then pin in place on the organizer, creating a pleat on the bottom.  Stitch around the edges and you’re done!


I had OCD making my pleat – this was about the 7th try!

The book pocket was by far the easiest part of the whole organizer.  I cut a large pocket, 12″x17″.  Press the top edge down 1/4″, then another 1/4″, and stitch in place.  Then press the other 3 edges in 1/4″, pin in place on the organizer, and stitch around the 3 sides.


The inside of the book pocket, with all the edges pressed in

One thing to keep in mind when you’re attaching your pockets and elastic to the organizer – these will take a lot of stress, especially at the tops, so be sure to backstitch for security!  They’ll have kids pulling on them for years, so you don’t want it to fall apart!

Once you put it all together, this is what you get!  It’s super handy for all those things that seem to collect in the car.  My favorite is the wet wipes – you can never have too many of those when you’re on the go!


The cup holders are great for bottles, Playtex sippees, Take N Tosses… whatever you use! And I know my friend’s 6-year-old will love having a special place to keep her books safe from her younger siblings.

I hope you find inspiration in this tutorial to create your own car organizer.  It really does help keep the clutter down and the necessities accessible!

Teacher Christmas Gifts

It probably comes as no surprise that  love making Monster’s teachers presents for Christmas.  This year, he is in the bumblebee class at school, and I found the perfect fabric for a bumblebee teacher – it has apples and bees!  I’ve noticed that all of the teachers wear their ID’s on a lanyard around their necks, so I thought it would be nice to make them some to go with their class theme (I blame all the different animal squadrons we’ve been in for making me use a theme in everything!).  I also made them each a clip keychain, because I have one myself and it’s super handy!  And since it’s Christmas time, I wanted to give them each a bumblebee ornament (which Monster got to help me make).  Plus a gift card to Target.  Can you tell we love our teachers??

So without further ado, let me show you how to make some gifts to spoil the teacher (or friend or relative) in your life!

I made the lanyard and the keychain at the same time, since they use basically the same supplies and methods.  To make both, you’ll need:

Cut a strip of fabric 4″x36″ (one yard) for the lanyard.  Save the scrap from the end (since the fabric you bought was 42-45″ long).  Then cut a piece 4″x11″ for the keychain.


Not pictured: the scrap from the lanyard piece that you will use

Press the short ends of the lanyard fabric towards the wrong side, then press in half longways.  Open it up, and press each of the raw edges into the center fold you just made.  Fold it back in half again to make a 1″ strip with no raw edges showing, and stitch a scant 1/8″ around the whole border.  Repeat for the 11″ strip, but don’t press the ends in (the raw edges will be covered later on they keychain).  Repeat one more time for the 4″ wide scrap, again making a 1″ wide strip.


Folding up the lanyard. It’s the same for the keychain and the scraps except for turning in the raw edges at the ends.


1″ strips for lanyard, keychain, and the scrap

For the keychain, loop the 1″ strip you just made onto the swivel clip.  Then use a wide zigzag to make a loop from the raw ends.  Move the zigzag connection down towards the clip, and cover with the scrap that you sewed, trimming and tucking the raw ends between the layers of the keychain.  Stitch around the scrap to secure and complete the keychain.

Key Ring Construction

Left: Zigzag to hold the ends in place. Right: See how the scrap covers the zigzag right next to the clip? And the raw edges are tucked between the layers to be hidden.

To complete the lanyard, slide the 2nd swivel clip onto the 1″ yard-long strip and stitch in place (think about making a V shape that will accommodate the wearer’s neck comfortably).


Pin and stitch the swivel clip in the center, making a V shape

Then, loop the back like a necklace and stitch on the Velcro – I was careful to make the hook side face away from the neck so it won’t be scratchy.  You could just sew it, but many schools require that teacher’s have a “quick release” on their lanyards in case of strangulation (crazy, but we want our teachers to be safe!).


Completed lanyard and keychain!

Last year, Monster was too little to help with making anything for his teachers.  But this year, he is obsessed with painting!  Anytime I ask him what he did at school, that’s the first word out of his mouth.  So I knew when I saw this adorable bumblebee ornament made from a light bulb, it was the perfect craft for us to do together!

I used a box from our favorite “fruit squeezes” to hold the bulbs.  The box comes with one hole which was perfect for the bulb, and I just used scissors to cut out the 2nd.  Then I laid down a paper bag with some paint, handed the toddler a brush, and he went to town painting them!

Paint Lightbulbs

He did a really excellent job, I only had to touch up a couple of spots later on – and he had a blast!

Once the yellow paint dried, I added black stripes and a black head (where the screw part was inserted into the box – an egg carton comes in handy for drying).  Then I used a glue gun to add googly eyes, pipecleaner wings, stinger, and antennae, and a pipecleaner to hang it by.  And don’t forget to sign your work!  Monster can’t help with that yet, but maybe next year!


I signed Monster’s name and the year on the bee’s butt!

I feel like the ornament will be much more meaningful to his teachers, knowing that he actually contributed to it rather than me doing everything or buying them things.  And I hope that the lanyard and keychain are useful to them!  At the very least, I don’t know that there is a human on this earth who wouldn’t like a Target gift card, and especially a teacher, who I know puts her own money into my child’s schooling.

Feel free to steal my ideas to make your own teachers something nice and useful for Christmas, and let them know how much you appreciate them!

Onesie Quilt

As moms, we get attached to a lot of the things our kids wear.  We’ve made great memories with them in these clothes, and they just look so darn cute in them!  Like most moms, my sister had a stack of onesies that she couldn’t part with, but my niece had long outgrown.  So for Christmas this year, I’m making her a onesie quilt!  Getting one on etsy is super expensive (at least $100 for a small one), but making one isn’t too hard at all!

Just like a standard T-shirt quilt, the first step is to cut your onesies up.  I found that a 7″ square is about the largest I could do, especially when there were 0-3m onesies in the mix.  Keep in mind that you’re going to lose 1/2″ from each side of the square, so if there are some seams in there, they likely won’t show on the finished product.  Once it’s put together, that leaves a 6″ square, which is big enough to see whatever design is on the shirt.  But unlike adult T-shirts, onesies are a lot more varied in their designs, so you have to get a little creative with how you make your blocks!

My niece also lives in Florida, so there were several onesies that were adorable spaghetti straps.  I could have just used the design on the shirt, but the straps are part of it’s appeal, so I didn’t want to just cut them off!  I cut my usual 7″ square, but left the straps long.  Then I measured how far down the arm holes went, and cut a piece of coordinating fabric a little larger.  I ironed that onto my fusible batting (carefully so I wouldn’t get the glue on my iron), then layered the onesie on top and ironed the bottom part on.  But the top of the onesie was still flapping in the breeze, so I cut a small piece of Wonder Web (Heat N Bond would work too) to “glue” the shirt onto the overlapping fabric.  Then I stitched around the neckline and straps of the shirt to complete the square, and trimmed the extra strap length.  This same method can be used for bibs!  (Check out this shirt on the finished quilt below – I love how the frilly straps went over the spaces between the squares!)

Spaghetti Straps

Left: 7″x7″ square, but straps left long. Second: Adding the back piece. Third: Shirt has been ironed on the bottom. Right: Adding Wonder Web to attach the top of the shirt.

Another popular onesie design has a faux skirt over the snapped bottom.  In this case, the onesie had a cute design near the bottom of the skirt hem.  So I cut the skirt to be about 6″ long instead of 7″ and used a piece of fabric from the onesie below the skirt to finish off the block.  You can see there is a flap again, but I stitched it in place along the hem of the skirt, so I didn’t need to glue it down.


I used the underside of the onesie below the skirt to layer it and show off what the onesie used to look like

My niece had the cutest outfit for the 4th of July (Peach actually wore it the day Radar left) with a tiered skirt.  I wanted to show off one of the tiers, so I let the ruffles lay naturally when I cut, so it’s a little 3-dimensional.  It gives the square the girly feel of the dress without compromising quality or stability because it was layered in the original garment.


It’s like a skirt still!

Often, the embroidered design on a onesie is right up near the collar; if you were to cut it to exclude the collar, most of the quilt block would be empty space.  Plus, you are cutting off those cute little bows that girls’ onesies often have!  So I used a similar method as I showed above with the spaghetti straps to incorporate a collar into the quilt block.  Measure the width and depth of the opening of the shirt (once your block is cut out) and cut a piece of coordinating fabric to fill the gap.  Iron it on the fusible batting, then layer the shirt on top and iron on.  There should not be so much overlap that Wonder Web is necessary, but you’ll definitely want to stitch along the collar line to keep it in place.


Just a little fabric below the collar, but it shows off the pretty bow and keeps the design from being right at the top of the block

And don’t let zippers or snaps scare you – you can still have them in your quilt!  A zipper won’t come undone once it’s sewn into the quilt, but I would stitch down the sides of the snaps to keep them from coming open.


Zippers are not a problem!

My sister didn’t give me hers, but it would be super cute to include a square with your child’s hospital blanket – I don’t know about you, but I can’t part with them, even though I don’t use them any more!  You could also add hats using the fabric layering method and Wonder Web – the sky is really the limit if you’re creative!  Another great idea to include in a onesie quilt is the cute animal faces they like to put on the little butts of onesies and pants these days – adorable!

To assemble the quilt, I used the same method as I detailed in the T-shirt quilt tutorial, so I’m not going to go into super detail about that and risk being redundant (if you don’t understand the method for putting it together, you can also check out my king size quilt, which uses the same method).  I didn’t actually quilt the individual squares this time, though – they’re only 6″ square finished, so the backing doesn’t really need to be held in place, and the designs on the onesies are so tiny and intricate I felt that quilting would detract from them rather than add.  I just layered the back square pieces with the front of the quilt blocks as I assembled the quilt.


I think it turned out pretty well 🙂

One more super nifty thing about this method is that with a little work, it can be added to!  All you need to do is pull off the binding, and more squares can be added!  I bought too much of the panda fabric on purpose with this in mind, so as my niece continues to outgrow her adorable clothes, the quilt can grow with her!  It’s an easy Christmas gift that keeps on giving!